I friggin love the beach. Nothing is more relaxing that heading to the beach after a rough day at the office. Pushing pencils, working the slide ruler, then I head out and jam for the ocean. I created a pinterest board to capture some of this awesomeness called Surfing and I think it's pretty awesome.
I learned to surf back in Puerto Rico, after the wall fell. Jim and I headed down there to get out of the States, really, we had just finished college and we were in need of something different. He got distracted by a girl, and I left him in San Jose, but I made it to the West Coast to a sleepy town that I can't even remember and pretty soon I was riding every day.
I met a grizzled old dude named El Rey, who could hardly speak any English but that was fine with me. I told him about the states, would give him packs of US cigarettes that my mom would send me from time to time, and pretty soon he was giving me lessons on the beach and showing me the best breaks. He made these amazing breakfast burritos in a small cafe that his family owned. It was rumored that he had once cut a woman's hand off, for stealing one of his salsa recipes. Who knows, but it was fucking good salsa.
It didn't take too long before I was surfing without Rey's guidance. With one eye, it was hard for him to catch the waves and balance, so he started to slow me down. He did come in handy though, cause he know the locals and sometimes they wanted to start fights with a gringo like me.
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